We’ve finally reached Ndumbin, a village that we’ve worked with in the past but were unable to reach during our December trip. A school was being built there last year and we’re excited to see the results.

We’re disheartened to find that the project has been abandoned (especially after trekking so far, so early in our trip).Our projects rely on villager involvement in the areas where we work, and these people are completely disillusioned, but I can’t blame them.

The hike we’ve just completed, the one that pushed us to the limit physically and mentally, is one they have to endure regularly to continue with construction – only they’re expected to do it while hauling construction supplies (think heavy tools and bags of sand).

Nkong is extremely isolated and people are ending up in the hospital trying to finish the job. During this time, crops have also stopped yielding and people have been dying at a higher rate, so their spirits are understandably low.

Three things happen that turn the tide.

First, Ed Smith, from our sister charity gives the villagers a motivational talk. He’s been working with this village for years and the people trust him. Ed reinforces what a difference this school will make to the village and reiterates our commitment to them. He also promises to get medicine here so they can deal with the increased number of sick and dying villagers (many of them children).

Second, we present the village chief with…a trumpet. This is the trumpet that I was scrambling to get right before I left for Africa. It’s customary to bring a gift for the chief but this was a special request. He’s so ecstatic with our gift that he jumps up starts dancing! Then he puts on a performance for the group (video of both will be coming soon).

Finally, and most exciting for us, the villagers perform a traditional Juju ceremony to rid the village of bad luck, and this is where things get really interesting. We all sit in a circle and in the center is a  man. I’m not sure if he’s considered a healer or holy man of some sort, but he’s put into a heavy trance, then stripped naked and put into an elaborate costume with mirrors all over it and a mask with a bird’s head.

Now he begins to dance while brandishing a stick. Drums beat in the background. Two men stand nearby with guns pointed at him. I begin to seriously sweat. The man has a jar and uses it to store the bad spirits that he pulls out of people in the crowd. He puts his ear to the jar, listening to the spirits, then dumps them in the middle of the circle and lights fire to them.

I’m watching, fascinated, as he makes his way around the circle. Some people are skipped over and others get more of his attention. He’s coming closer to me and with the costume and vocalizing, he’s very intimidating (not to mention his friends with the guns), and I’m happy to be in the back row.

Then he stops. In front of me. He’s directing his Juju incantations at me. I barely breathe, hoping that he’ll get what he needs and move on, but he doesn’t budge. He stays in front of me for almost TEN minutes. Is he planning to sacrifice the skinny foreign chick to get the crops going? We’ll never know, because thankfully he’s finally satisfied and goes to someone else.

I let out a shaky exhale. I wrote earlier about feeling like I live a little bit more when I’m in Africa. This is a perfect example of that.

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